Upgrades
61 upgrades across 11 classes of bike, in the order they pay off: cheap setup and maintenance first, then the money that changes the bike most, then specialist work. Every entry says what the kit is, what changes about riding it afterwards, what it costs you elsewhere and which questions decide whether it fits your bike.
There are no part numbers here on purpose. Fitment turns on model year, market and which wheel or suspension option your bike left the factory with, so a SKU list would be wrong within a season — and wrong in the direction that costs you money. What holds is the engineering, and that is what is recorded.
Start from what you want to change
One page per goal, with the kits that serve it and which bikes they suit.
Suspension & handling
The cheapest real improvement on almost any bike, because almost every bike is sprung for a rider who is not you.
8 upgrades
Tyres, wheels & brakes
The four contact patches and the two things that change their speed. Nothing else you bolt on matters more.
5 upgrades
Protection & crash damage
Parts whose job is to make a fall or a rock strike a bad afternoon instead of the end of the trip.
7 upgrades
Ergonomics & comfort
Where you sit, what you hold and what the wind does to you — the reasons a ride ends early that have nothing to do with the engine.
7 upgrades
Luggage & load carrying
Getting weight onto the bike low, tight and off the subframe's weakest points.
5 upgrades
Fuel range
How far the bike goes between fuel stops, and what you do when the next one is closed.
3 upgrades
Lighting & visibility
Seeing at night and being seen in traffic — the upgrade with the best safety return per dollar on a road bike.
4 upgrades
Electrics & charging
Power for what you have bolted on, and a charging system that can still start the bike after a cold night.
6 upgrades
Reliability & longevity
The unglamorous list: fasteners, fluids, bearings, wiring and the known weak point on your specific bike.
9 upgrades
Power & fuelling
Last on the list on purpose: it is the most expensive way to change how a bike feels, and often the least effective.
7 upgrades
Start from the kind of bike
Class decides most of the answer, which is why a bike nobody sells parts for still gets a full upgrade path.
Enduro / competition dirt bike
Race-derived single, road-legal or not. Suspension and protection are the whole game; the engine is already ahead of the rider.
28 upgrades
Dual-sport / big-bore trail bike
Road-legal single ridden on dirt. Comes softly sprung and lightly protected because it has to sell as a commuter too.
30 upgrades
Middleweight adventure bike
Under about a litre, ridden loaded on gravel. Upgrades are about surviving drops and carrying weight without wrecking the handling.
36 upgrades
Large adventure bike
Litre-plus, heavy, already well equipped. Money goes into protection, suspension that copes with the loaded weight, and lighting.
32 upgrades
Sportbike / supersport
Suspension and brakes are the upgrade path; everything else is about surviving a low-side and making it usable on the road.
23 upgrades
Naked / roadster / retro
Good chassis, no weather protection and usually a hard seat. Wind, comfort and lighting are where the gains are.
26 upgrades
Small-capacity commuter
Cheap to run and built to a price. The upgrades that matter are the ones that keep you visible, dry and on the road.
22 upgrades
Cruiser
Long, low and sprung short. Seat, suspension travel and load capacity are the constraints, not power.
22 upgrades
Tourer / sport-tourer / bagger
Already carries luggage and a fairing. Upgrades are about wind, seat comfort over 500 km days, lighting and loaded suspension.
25 upgrades
Scooter / maxi-scooter
CVT transmission and small wheels change the rules: no gearing swap, no chain, and the tyres matter more than on anything else.
17 upgrades
Sidecar outfit
A three-wheeled vehicle with motorcycle parts. Loads, brakes and tyres are all working outside what the base bike was designed for.
23 upgrades
Bikes with model-specific notes
These bikes have something of their own to say — a known weak point, a part that is structural, an upgrade the class list would put in the wrong order. Every other bike in the catalogue gets its class path.
All 125 bikes in the catalogue have an upgrade page at /upgrades/<brand>/<model>.
How to read the stages
Stage 1 is setup and maintenance: sag, fluids, fasteners, tyres. It is cheap, reversible and it is where most of the complaint about a bike actually lives — riders routinely buy a suspension kit to fix a problem that was preload. Stage 2 is the money that changes the bike: springs and valving matched to your weight, protection, luggage mounting, lighting. Stage 3 is specialist work with a real downside — engine internals, exhaust and fuelling, gearing that trades one kind of riding for another.
Prices are parts-only USD bands for the reputable version of the part, excluding fitting, and they are estimates rather than quotes. Store links are affiliate searches for a kind of part, never a specific product for your bike.