RIDERTOOLKIT

Upgrades · 2019–present

Zero Motorcycles SR/F upgrades

23 upgrades, $1.8k–$7.5k of parts for the whole path — filtered for belt final drive and tubeless wheels and treated as a naked / roadster / retro. Nobody does all of it; the order is the point.

Model years

2019–present

Engine

Electric

Final drive

belt

Wheels

Tubeless

Upgrade class

Naked / roadster / retro

Assumed riding

road use, no extra conditions

How specific this page is

The final drive, wheel type and how this bike gets ridden are recorded per model, and the list is filtered on them. Beyond that this is the naked / roadster / retro path — nothing model-specific has been researched for this bike yet, and a guessed part number is worse than none. Check your own manual and a model-year fitment listing before ordering.

Known about this bike

  • Electric: no oil, no fuel filter and no chain, so the kit drops the drivetrain tools and keeps tyre repair and electrical spares.

Stage 1Before your next ride

Cheap, reversible, mostly hand tools. Do all of these before spending on anything in stage 2; several of them are free.

  • Set rider sag and preload for your weight

    Suspension & handling$0–$40 · ~1 h to fit

    A tape measure, a helper and the preload adjusters the bike already has.

    Bikes are sprung for a nominal 75–80 kg rider in nothing but leathers. Set sag first and half the complaints about a bike diving, wallowing or running out of travel go away for free — and you learn whether the springs are actually wrong before you buy any.

    Check before you order

    • Static and rider sag targets from the service manual, not a forum
    • How much preload range is left before the adjuster bottoms out
    • Whether the shock has a remote hydraulic adjuster (loaded settings become a 10-second job)

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Tyres chosen for the surface you actually ride

    Tyres, wheels & brakes$150–$500 · ~2 h to fit

    A tyre pair matched to your real road/dirt split, in the load and speed rating the bike needs.

    The single biggest change you can make to how a bike steers, grips and stops, and the only upgrade you are forced to buy anyway. Most riders run a 50/50 tyre for a 90/10 life, or a sport tyre through a winter.

    Check before you order

    • Load index and speed rating at least what the manual specifies, especially two-up
    • Tube or tubeless construction, and whether the rear is available in your size
    • Honest split: knobblies wear out in 3,000 km of tarmac and steer badly in the wet

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Frame sliders and axle sliders

    Protection & crash damage$60–$220 · ~1 h to fit

    Delrin or nylon pucks on frame and axle mounts that slide instead of digging in.

    The cheapest way to keep a low-side to plastics and a lever instead of a case, a radiator and a fork leg.

    Check before you order

    • Cut-out or no-cut mounts, and whether the fairing needs drilling
    • Bolt grade and length: a slider is only as good as what it bolts through

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Handlebar swap and risers

    Ergonomics & comfort$40–$250 · ~2 h to fit

    A bar with different rise, sweep and width, or 20–50 mm risers on the stock bar.

    Fixes the standing position on a dirt bike and the wrist and shoulder ache on a road bike, for less than the price of a tyre. It is the first thing to try for a tall rider.

    Check before you order

    • Cable, hose and loom length — brake hoses are the usual limit at full lock
    • Bar diameter (22 vs 28.6 mm) and whether your controls and guards fit it
    • Clearance to the screen, tank and fairing at full lock

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Screen or windshield change

    Ergonomics & comfort$60–$350 · ~1 h to fit

    A taller, shorter or differently shaped screen, or a spoiler lip added to the stock one.

    Helmet buffeting is a geometry problem: the top edge needs to sit either well below your line of sight or above your helmet, never in between. Getting it right removes the noise and the neck ache; getting it wrong is worse than no screen at all.

    Trade-off: A taller screen adds heat behind it in summer and catches crosswinds.

    Check before you order

    • Your seated helmet height, which is why a screen that suits one rider fails another
    • An adjustable bracket or a bolt-on lip is a cheaper first experiment than a new screen

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Throttle lock or cruise control

    Ergonomics & comfort$25–$400 · ~1 h to fit

    A friction throttle lock, a bolt-on cruise module, or enabling factory cruise where the hardware is already fitted.

    Being able to take a hand off the bar on a 600 km day is worth more than most things costing ten times as much.

    Check before you order

    • Ride-by-wire bikes often have factory cruise disabled in software — check before buying hardware
    • A friction lock must release instantly when you close the throttle

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Wide footpegs, lowered pegs and adjustable levers

    Ergonomics & comfort$70–$300 · ~2 h to fit

    Wider, sharper-toothed footpegs, a lowering bracket where legroom is short, and span-adjustable brake and clutch levers.

    Wide pegs stop your boot slipping and take the fatigue out of standing; 20 mm of peg drop opens up a cramped riding position more than a bar change; a lever you can actually reach with two fingers is a braking upgrade.

    Check before you order

    • Lowered pegs move the brake pedal and shifter too — both need re-setting
    • Cornering clearance on a road bike: pegs that hang lower touch down earlier
    • Folding pegs with a proper stop, so they do not fold under your boot

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Tank bag and cockpit storage

    Luggage & load carrying$60–$250 · ~1 h to fit

    A magnetic, strap or lock-ring tank bag, plus a small bar or fork bag for what you need while moving.

    Documents, phone, snacks and a tyre gauge where you can reach them without stopping. Weight this far forward barely affects handling.

    Check before you order

    • Plastic or alloy tanks need straps or a lock ring, not magnets
    • It must not block the bars at full lock or your view of the dash

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Brake-light modulator and rear conspicuity

    Lighting & visibility$30–$150 · ~1 h to fit

    An LED tail-light or modulator that flashes briefly on braking, plus reflective tape on the panniers, rims and fork.

    Being rear-ended in traffic is a top-three urban crash, and the cheapest countermeasure on the whole bike is a light that gets noticed and tape that gets seen in a headlight.

    Check before you order

    • Modulator legality varies by market — some allow flashing only above a certain rate
    • LED tail lights can confuse older bulb-monitor circuits

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Louder horn

    Lighting & visibility$25–$120 · ~1 h to fit

    A twin-tone or air horn on a relay, so the current is not going through the stock switch.

    The stock horn on most bikes cannot be heard inside a car with the windows up. It is $40 to fix that.

    Check before you order

    • Mounting point with airflow and no water trap
    • Relay it: the stock wiring cannot carry an air horn

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Fused accessory block with USB

    Electrics & charging$30–$180 · ~3 h to fit

    A small fuse block fed from the battery through a relay triggered by an ignition-switched circuit, with USB and a powerlet outlet.

    One place to hang lights, heated kit, a GPS and a compressor, each individually fused, nothing draining the battery with the key out, and no more spliced-into-the-tail-light wiring.

    Check before you order

    • Total accessory draw against what the alternator makes at idle
    • A dry mounting spot with strain-relieved wiring away from the steering head
    • Trigger the relay from a low-current circuit, not the headlight feed

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Navigation mount and powered cradle

    Electrics & charging$40–$200 · ~1 h to fit

    A vibration-damped mount on the bar clamp or a frame bracket, with a switched, fused power lead.

    Phones die from vibration on a bar clamp, and a phone on a dying battery is a navigation failure at the worst moment.

    Check before you order

    • Mount off the bar clamp or a solid bracket, not mid-bar, and damped on a single-cylinder bike
    • It must not obstruct the dash or the bars at full lock

    Do first: Fused accessory block with USB

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Voltmeter and a tender lead

    Electrics & charging$20–$90 · ~1 h to fit

    A dash or bar voltmeter, plus a permanently fitted pigtail for a smart charger.

    A charging fault shows up as a falling voltage days before it strands you, and a bike that lives outside stays healthy on a tender for the price of one battery.

    Check before you order

    • Pigtail routed where you can reach it without removing bodywork
    • Fused at the battery end

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Fastener audit and thread-lock

    Reliability & longevity$10–$80 · ~3 h to fit

    A torque wrench, the manual's torque table, medium-strength thread-lock and an evening.

    Half of all roadside failures are something that vibrated loose: subframe bolts, sprocket nuts, bar clamps, exhaust flanges, spokes. It costs the price of a bottle of thread-lock.

    Check before you order

    • The manual's torque figures, since alloy threads strip long before steel
    • Paint-mark critical fasteners so a loose one is visible at a glance

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Fluids and filters baseline

    Reliability & longevity$60–$250 · ~3 h to fit

    Engine oil and filter, brake fluid, coolant, air filter and fuel filter, all replaced to a known date regardless of what the seller said.

    On a used bike this is the cheapest way to reset the unknowns, and brake fluid and coolant are the two nobody ever changes.

    Check before you order

    • Grades and quantities from the bike's own manual — never the brand default
    • Off-road bikes need a foam-filter service kit and a spare filter, not just a new one

    Search for parts:Amazon

Stage 2The money upgrades

Where the bike actually changes character. Bigger spend, still a home-garage job on most bikes.

  • Fork springs matched to your weight, with fresh oil

    Suspension & handling$150–$400 · ~3 h to fit

    Straight-rate springs chosen for rider plus kit weight, new fork oil and seals while it is apart.

    Once preload is out of range, springs are the fix. Fork oil is a service item that almost nobody changes: ten-year-old oil is why the front end feels harsh and vague at the same time.

    Check before you order

    • Rider weight in full kit, and whether you ride loaded or two-up
    • Spring rate and free length for your exact fork, which varies within a model range
    • Cartridge or damper-rod forks — damper-rod legs also want an oil-weight change

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Sintered pads and braided lines

    Tyres, wheels & brakes$80–$300 · ~2 h to fit

    Pads to a spec chosen for the use, stainless braided hoses and fresh fluid.

    Braided lines take the sponge out of a long front line, and fresh fluid does more than either. On a bike carrying luggage or a pillion the stock pad compound is usually the weak link, not the caliper.

    Check before you order

    • Pad compound suits the disc: some sintered compounds chew cast-iron and older discs
    • Hose lengths for your bar and mudguard setup, and whether ABS lines are separate
    • Off-road: softer pads bite better cold and wet, but glaze under sustained downhill braking

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Crash bars / engine guards

    Protection & crash damage$200–$700 · ~2 h to fit

    Tubular steel or alloy bars taking a fall on the bar, not on the engine case, fairing or radiator.

    On a 240 kg bike, the difference between a scuffed bar and a cracked engine case is a $400 part. They also give you something to lever against when you pick the bike up.

    Trade-off: 3–6 kg and the leverage of a long bar can transfer damage to its own mounts.

    Check before you order

    • Mounting points into the frame, not the engine — a bar loaded into a case can crack it
    • Whether upper bars foul the fairing, mirror or your knees
    • Width added: some bars make a bike too wide for filtering or a trailer

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Reshaped or aftermarket seat

    Ergonomics & comfort$180–$600 · ~1 h to fit

    A wider, flatter foam of the right density — either a replacement seat or your own pan re-foamed and re-covered.

    Numbness at 90 minutes is the most common reason a touring day ends early, and it is a foam-density problem, not a padding-thickness problem. Re-foaming your own pan also lets you take height out for a shorter inseam, or add it for a taller one.

    Check before you order

    • Seat height change in both directions — say which way you want it
    • Off-road: a flat seat you can move around on beats a plush bucket that pins you in place
    • Heated seat elements need a switched, fused circuit

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Top box on a plate

    Luggage & load carrying$200–$700 · ~1 h to fit

    A lockable 30–50 litre case on a mounting plate over a subframe-mounted rack.

    Where a helmet and a shop run live, and the only luggage most commuters need.

    Trade-off: Raises the centre of gravity at the worst possible point.

    Check before you order

    • Rack load rating including the case's own weight
    • A big box far back is the classic cause of high-speed weave — keep the load light

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Auxiliary driving lights

    Lighting & visibility$120–$600 · ~3 h to fit

    A pair of spot or flood pods on the crash bars or fork, on a relay and a fused switched circuit.

    Spots put light where the headlight cannot, and running them dimmed by day makes you visible to the car pulling out of a junction.

    Check before you order

    • Charging headroom: a pair of 40 W pods on a small bike will out-draw the alternator
    • Relay off the battery, fused, and switched — never spliced into the headlight feed
    • Aim them at the ground: badly aimed pods make you the reason someone crashes

    Do first: Fused accessory block with USB

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • LED headlight bulb or unit

    Lighting & visibility$80–$400 · ~1 h to fit

    A quality LED retrofit in the stock reflector, or a complete LED projector unit.

    Older halogen units are the reason night riding feels like guessing. Done properly, this doubles usable light without touching the charging system.

    Check before you order

    • Reflector geometry: a cheap LED in a halogen reflector scatters light and blinds oncoming traffic
    • Beam pattern must keep a legal cut-off in your market
    • Some bikes need a decoder to stop a bulb-out warning or flicker

    Search for parts:Amazon

  • Better battery, or lithium

    Electrics & charging$100–$450 · ~1 h to fit

    A quality AGM in the stock size, or a lithium-iron pack where weight matters, plus a matching charger.

    Most no-start faults are a tired battery, and a lithium pack saves 2–4 kg on a dirt bike. AGM is the better answer for anything that sits in the cold.

    Check before you order

    • Lithium needs a compatible charger and dislikes cold cranking — a bad choice for a winter commuter
    • Case size and terminal orientation in the stock tray, and vibration padding
    • Whether the bike's regulator is kind to lithium chemistry

    Search for parts:Amazon

One goal at a time

Other Zero Motorcycles models