Any bike
What tools to carry if your bike is not listed
Updated 2026-08-09
The honest answer for a bike not listed here is short: metric spanners and sockets in 8, 10, 13, 17 mm, hex keys in 4, 5, 6, 8 mm, T25, T30, T40 Torx bits, a Phillips cross-head driver, and a tyre repair kit that matches your wheels. Wheels are tube-type on some models and tubeless on others, so the tyre half of the kit depends on which version you own. Final drive is chain, so a master link, a chain breaker and lube stay in the roll.
Generic metric baseline. Walk around your bike with a set of keys and note which sizes actually appear, then trim the kit to those.
Your bike is not in the brand list, so this page is the generic baseline plus the method for narrowing it down: audit the fasteners on the bike itself, then cut everything the audit did not find. The headline list is 38 items, 8.2 kg.
Fastener sizes on a bike not listed here
Bikes not listed here are metric throughout. Sockets and spanners in 8, 10, 13, 17 mm reach most of what you can realistically work on at the roadside: chain adjusters, bar clamps, lever perches, mirrors, engine mounts and bodywork brackets.
The axle nuts are the exception to every generic list. They are usually the two largest sizes on the bike, they vary by model and year, and without the right one you cannot pull a wheel — which means you cannot fix a flat. Measure both axles with a caliper before you buy anything.
- — Spanners and sockets: 8, 10, 13, 17 mm
- — Hex (Allen): 4, 5, 6, 8 mm
- — Torx: T25, T30, T40
- — Cross-head: Phillips
- — Axle nuts: measure yours (commonly 22–32 mm off-road, 24–36 mm on road bikes)
Cross-head screws and bit drivers
Cross-head screws on a bike not listed here are Phillips, so a standard Phillips bit is the correct fit and there is no JIS trap to fall into.
What does catch people out is how much of the bike is Torx rather than cross-head or hex. Bodywork, brackets and often brake discs use T25, T30, T40, and forcing a hex key into a Torx socket chews it into a hole nothing will grip.
Tyre repair: check which wheels you have first
This is the one thing to get right before you pack. Bikes not listed here ship with tube-type spoked wheels on some models and tubeless cast or cross-spoke wheels on others, and the two need completely different kit. Carrying the wrong one is the same as carrying nothing.
If you are unsure: a valve stem that comes straight out of the rim with a nut is usually tubeless; a rubber stem on a spoked rim with a rim lock nearby is a tube. Check the tyre sidewall too — it will say TUBE TYPE or TUBELESS.
- — Tube-type: levers, spare rear tube, patch kit, rim-lock spanner
- — Tubeless: plug kit, compressor or CO2, pliers
- — Both: pressure gauge and spare valve cores
Chain drive: the spares that end a ride
A chain that jumps off or snaps is unrecoverable without parts. Carry a clip-type master link matched to your chain's pitch (520, 525 and 428 are the common ones — check the marking on your own chain) even if the chain is riveted, plus a compact chain breaker so you can shorten a damaged chain enough to limp out.
Chain slack is also the adjustment you will actually make on the road, so the kit needs two spanners for the adjuster locknuts as well as the axle tool — a socket alone will not hold the locknut while you turn the adjuster.
What to check before you trust a generic list
These are the details that change what you pack, drawn from the same profile the kit builder uses.
- — Build the list from your service manual's fastener and torque tables rather than guessing.
- — Do a driveway dry run: pull both wheels and adjust the chain using only the kit you plan to carry.
Do the five-minute audit before you buy anything
The sizes on this page are what bikes not listed here typically use, not a promise about your specific model and year. Walk around the bike with a set of keys and a marker and write down what you actually find; it takes five minutes and it is what turns a 3 kg kit into a 1 kg one.
Then do a dry run: pull both wheels and adjust the chain in the driveway using only the kit you plan to carry. Anything you had to walk to the toolbox for goes in the roll; anything you never touched comes out.
- — Front and rear axle nuts, and the pinch bolts that hold them
- — Chain adjuster locknuts (you need two spanners for these)
- — Bodywork and engine-cover screws — note whether they are cross-head, hex or Torx
- — Bar clamps, lever perches, mirrors and screen
- — Spark plug size, and the seat or panel bolts you remove to reach the battery
The kit for a bike not listed here, item by item
1/4in ratchet + sockets (8, 10, 12, 13, 14 mm)
Load it with 8, 10, 13, 17 mm rather than the sizes the set came with.
A stubby ratchet plus a short extension packs smaller than a full socket set. Add a 1/4in-to-hex-bit adapter to share the ratchet with your bits.
Where to buy:Amazon
Axle nut wrench / socket for your bike
The one tool you cannot improvise. Measure both axles on your own bike first.
Check both axles with a caliper before you leave. Combined tire-iron/axle-wrench levers save weight.
Where to buy:Amazon
Headlamp (hands-free)
Every breakdown eventually happens in the dark or under the bike.
Where to buy:Amazon
Hex (Allen) key set — 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm
4, 5, 6, 8 mm is the working range on this brand.
Ball-end long-arm keys, or 1/4in hex bits plus a driver if you already carry a ratchet.
Where to buy:Amazon
Pliers with side cutters
Cut safety wire, pull clips, and grip the head you just rounded.
Where to buy:Amazon
Reversible screwdriver — JIS/Phillips + flat
A Phillips bit plus a flat covers the bodywork and clamps.
A 1/4in bit driver with JIS #2, PH2 and a 5 mm flat covers everything.
Where to buy:Amazon
Tire pressure gauge
Cheapest handling and puncture-resistance upgrade there is.
Where to buy:Amazon
Tube patch kit + vulcanising glue
Repairs the tube you just removed so you keep a spare in reserve.
Include a scuffer/rasp and check the glue hasn't dried out before every trip.
Where to buy:Amazon
Tubeless plug kit (sticky strings or mushroom plugs)
The highest-value item on a tubeless bike: a nail hole fixed without pulling the wheel.
Rasp + insertion tool + 5 plugs. Vulcanising strips are more durable than cheap rubber strings.
Where to buy:Amazon
Chain master link (+ half link) and chain breaker
Match the pitch on your own chain, and carry a clip link even if yours is riveted.
Match the pitch (520/525/428) and bring a clip-type link even if your chain is riveted.
Where to buy:Amazon
Spare spark plug (pre-gapped)
Light, cheap, and the difference between riding out and being towed after a drowning.
Where to buy:Amazon
Spare fuses (full set of your bike's ratings)
A blown main fuse looks exactly like a dead bike, and weighs nothing to fix.
Check the fuse box lid for ratings; carry two of each plus the fuse puller.
Where to buy:Amazon
The same bike, five ways to ride it
Each list is already filtered for this brand's fasteners, wheels and final drive. The counts and weights below are what you would actually carry.
Questions riders ask
- What tools do I need if my bike is not listed?
- Start with metric spanners and sockets in 8, 10, 13, 17 mm, hex keys in 4, 5, 6, 8 mm, T25, T30, T40 Torx bits, a Phillips cross-head driver, pliers and the correct axle wrench. Add tyre repair that matches your wheels, fuses, zip ties and threadlocker. The road touring list on this page comes to 38 items and 8.2 kg.
- Is a bike not listed here metric or SAE?
- Bikes not listed here are metric. Spanners and sockets in 8, 10, 13, 17 mm cover most roadside work, and you do not need an SAE set.
- Does a bike not listed here need a plug kit or a spare tube?
- It depends on the model: this brand sells both tube-type spoked wheels and tubeless wheels. Check the tyre sidewall for TUBE TYPE or TUBELESS before you pack, because the wrong kit is the same as no kit.
- Which Torx sizes does a bike not listed here use?
- T25, T30, T40 are the sizes worth carrying. Torx typically shows up on bodywork, brackets and brake discs, and a hex key forced into a Torx socket will destroy it.
- What chain spares should I carry on a bike not listed here?
- A clip-type master link matched to your chain pitch, a compact chain breaker and a small can of lube. Add two spanners for the adjuster locknuts, because a socket alone cannot hold one while you turn the other.
- Is the tool kit that came with a bike not listed here enough?
- Rarely. The OEM kit is worth keeping for the axle wrench and any brand-specific pieces, but the stamped spanners flex under real torque and the screwdriver slips. Keep those pieces, add a compact ratchet with the sizes above, a proper driver, pliers and tyre repair, and you have a kit you would actually be happy using.